A Big Mountain – Kaweka

On Sunday past I headed off reasonably early to the foot of the Kaweka Range. When I rose the sun was just rising and there was a pretty hard frost outside, -2 or so, as hard as it gets in coastal Hawkes Bay. After chucking a few things in a bag, I headed a couple of hours inland. The sun fully up revealed a cloudless sky with the usual warming sun and little or no breeze. I stopped on the way to the carpark at a viewpoint and took this pic of the Kaweka Ridge.

Kaweka Ridge

I got to the carpark and put on my boots and looked at the map. The carpark is around 900m and the top of Kaweka J (junior I think, but turned out to be higher than North Kaweka by about 20m) is about 1725m, no easy stroll. The weather forecast was fine with any wind dropping away and bright sunny conditions. What the hell, lets go for it! I set off to see how far up Kaweka J and possibly North Kaweka I could go.

The first bit was an easy climb, but after a k’ or so I realised I was on the wrong path due to the signage being a bit confusing. I was on the right ridge and had followed the right signs, but was on the harder of two spurs with the guide book not mentioning the easier spur by its name. Looking at the map and up the ridge I was on, I decided to continue. After a good old slog up about 400m with some scrambling over scree and a couple of craggy outcrops my spur joined the main spur. After a wee rest I pushed on up the next 150m or so up to the Dominie Bivouac.

North Kaweka beyond the Dominie Bivouac

Another rest and it was starting to get cold. I had been in shorts and teeshirt ’til then, only cold when occasionally exposed to the wind on the ridge. I was also well into the snow by now. The last big climb took me around the South side of the ridge (S. hemisphere, sun free side) and I crossed a couple of wee snow fields. The clincher was one about 20-30m across. I couldn’t see what was below it (could have been a long drop and a real short stop) and there were no steps across it. Without walking sticks, crampons or an ice-axe – and alone and not having given anything other than a vague plan to my neighbours – I decided not to risk it and turned back. Annoying as I was only 100m or so in height and 1km distant from Kaweka J after slogging up about 700m. Mind you, my legs were like jelly when I got back to the carpark.

I had earlier seen signs to ‘Hot Springs’ and given my tired legs I decided to go and check them out and maybe have a bit of a soak. On reaching the main road, which quickly turned to gravel, it was a good half hour drive to the Mangatutu Hot Springs. Again, only two cars there. On the way down to the spring I passed a couple heading back up the track, but not another soul in sight. At the bottom of the path DOC have kindly built a wooden platform with a fibreglass pool to soak in. It looks out over the mighty Mohaka River – a very cool spot. With nobody around I took a risk and skinny-dipped in the pool. Very pleasant! After about half an hour I got out and sat in the warm sun and warm breeze until I was dry and could get dressed. I hadn’t planned coming here and hadn’t packed a towel or spare clothes. Back home in Scotland this place would have been mobbed, so it was awesome to have most of an hour of relaxation with no disturbance in amongst the ferns, native shrubs and the towering introduced gum trees.

Note to self – perhaps be less ambitious when you haven’t climbed a mountain for a year or two! Boy are my legs sore today!

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